A Birthday at a Jewel on the Panama Pacific: Cambutal

I have celebrated my birthday in Yellowstone National Park and in Paris, twice. I have gone the pampered route and enjoyed the birthday wishes of friends over campfires in the Montana and Wyoming Rockies. This might explain why this year my wife and I went with friends to the “other end” of Panama for my birthday and a weekend get-a-way. We drove out from Panama City to the Pacific side of the Azuero Penninsula to a beach called Cambutal. The drive - that folks in Cambutal say takes five hours - took us seven hours. However, part of that had to do with navigating the hilly/mountainous interior of the Azuero Penninsula in a 50 HP car made for puttering around Panama City. Nevertheless, going up the hills at 20 kilometers per hour made it easy to enjoy the gorgeous scenery. (On the way back we took the much better maintained and flatter coastal road from Tonosi to Las Tablas.)

My friend’s seven year old daughter was a real soldier and did not start asking “donde vamos?” until we were catching glimpses of the Pacific, an hour before our arrival. To her credit she did not start asking the fatal question any sooner than her mother or my typically very patient wife. My friend was pretty good natured but did say to remind him how far away our next adventure would take us. Fortunately, the weariness of travel vanished when we got to the Pacific coast of Los Santos province at sunset. The next part is why we might just come back, long drive and all, to visit Cambutal.

Cambutal and the Pacific Coast of the Azuero Penninsula

On the Pacific coast of the Azuero Peninsula there is a string of surfing beaches for both beginners and pros. It was this stretch of pristine breaches and rolling breakers that attracted the attention of a handful of individuals who provide housing along Playa Cambutal. Two of the people who have set up shop on Playa Cambutal are Haley Whitmore and her husband, Albriro. They manage a ten room hotel on the beach where surfers, beach combers, hikers, and all those in search of authentic adventure can do so from a central and well appointed setting. From this idyllic location guests can walk off the back patio to surf right in front of the hotel. They can catch a ride to surf, kayak, or watch sea turtles for the day and be back in the evening. Horseback riding, deep sea fishing, observing whales within sight of the beach, and watching sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs along the same beach are all part of the experience at Playa Cambutal.

Playa Cambutal is located near the small town of Tononsí, an hour’s drive from Las Tablas through gorgeous mountain scenery. In a car with sufficient horse power it is a comfortable five hours from Panama City, turning off the Pan American Highway at Divisa and continuing through Chitré, Las Tablas, and Tonosí. A longer but better road from Las Tablas takes one through the town of Pedasi and past the famous surfing beach at Playa Venao.

People on this stretch of beach were attracted to Cambutal by the excellent range of surfing beaches and the unspoiled beachfront. At Playa Cambutal is an excellent beginner’s beach and up the coast within an easy half hour drive are “4-11,” Dinosauro, and Corto Ciruito. The rocky bottom produces waves anywhere from 4 to 11 feet along this stretch.

Aside from its unspoiled beachfront Cambutal is within easy striking distance of natural attractions along the entire Pacific Coast of the Azuero Peninsula. To the East lies Cerro Hoya National Park where hikers will find the highest peak in the Azuero Penninsula at 1,559 meters. The park is primitive with a diverse ecosystem, 95 species of birds including the scarlet macaw. Cerro Hoya is very bio diverse from its coastal mangroves to volcanic peaks. Coastal areas include coral reefs, cliffs, and mangrove swamps. The mountain areas are covered by forests and are home to over 95 species of birds including the scarlet macaw, painted parakeet, king vulture, osprey and black-hawk. The park also has white tailed deer, jaguars and ocelots.

To the West is one of the best known surfing beaches in Panama, Playa Venao, at which international surfing competitions have been held. You can make arrangements to go horseback riding in the surf or explore inland. Local fishermen will take you out to where there is a 200 meter underwater drop off that provides excellent sport fishing. Go kayaking up the rivers or out beyond the surf. Between Cambutal and Venao is the Isla Cañas wildlife refuge with large number of nesting turtles in season.

In August and September guests can spot whales within sight of the beach and from August to November Olive Ridley sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs at Cambutal.

For someone who just wants to hang around the unspoiled beach and explore during the day there is Mono Puerco (Pig Hill) with its shoreline cave. At low tide you can enter the sandy floored cave until you are down to your hands and knees and the light is faint. Explore the other direction and come to a river on which you can kayak or find artifacts that have washed down from the highlands. There are 146 species of various birds in the area as well as ten distinct species of humming bird that come to the feeders at the Hotel Playa Cambutal.

The beach at Cambutal is a get-a-way. Cell phones won’t work until you drive the 20 kilometers to Tonosi. However, there are small hotels and a surfing camp with food, plenty of beer, and folks willing to help you find the right wave or a horse to ride in the surf.

Nearby surfing attractions:

Playa Venao: One of the most famous surf spots in Panama, as this particular spot has held numerous international surf competitions. It's located in the Los Santos Province, and enjoys very impressive scenery. Waves of 8-10 ft. are not uncommon. There are several establishments that provide all the services necessary to enjoy a good weekend stay.

Guanico: Situated in the town of Cambutal, Los Santos Province. Much like Playa Venao, there is a beach break with various peaks, many of which can generate waves of 6-8 feet. There are several establishments that provide all the services necessary to enjoy a good weekend stay.

Cambutal: Also located in the Province of Los Santos , but after Tonosi. A rocky bottom produces a wide variety of waves, oscillating between 4-11 ft. Other areas nearby exist that produce good waves including which include Corto Ciruito or Dinosaurio. There is very little near this beach, as they are far from any large communities.